There's going to be a negative pressure of the water flowing past the exit of the heater hose going towards the old position of the mechanical water pump. This will retain normal heater core function.Īfm, I'm not sure I understand how it will reverse the flow through the heater. Reroute your heater core so that it returns to the lower hose upstream of the EWP. With an EWP, IMO, you no longer have the option of feeding the water out the front of the head.Ģ. Absolutely install a reroute of some sort. Your setup will get rid of all of that.ġ. With the stock engine, the stock water pump draws water from the heater core into the mixing manifold, so at least there's some flow. I would expect this motor to overheat and fail dramatically faster than a stock engine would. Now you have an engine which has the water inlet at the front, the water outlet at the front, and zero flow through the heater core. I'm going to approximate that flow at "essentially zero". That now includes both the heater core inlet and outlet, so you're relying on whatever pressure drop occurs through the mixing manifold and block to create flow through the heater core. With an EWP in the lower hose, you will presumably have positive pressure throughout the cooling system, from the exit of the EWP all the way through to the radiator inlet. I suspect "somewhat" is an understatement. Keeping the heater routing stock and switching from a stock water pump to a lower rad hose EWP will: Like afm said, it’s pretty unlikely that you’re going to find anyone who’s dealt with this exact problem before. Coolant reroute is probably a good idea in this case, unless you’re willing to do the testing yourself and maybe lose a motor in the process. Definitely not the pressure drop created by the stock mechanical water pump at that point. The stock lower water inlet doesn’t look like an efficient enough shape to me to create a good pressure drop on the heater core return line. When you move the water pump into the lower rad hose, the pressures on each side of the heater core will be very close to equal and you’ll be relying on the fluid dynamics alone to create flow. This pressure differential causes significant flow on its own. The stock water pump creates very high pressure inside the block on the heater core supply side, and very low pressure at the water pump inlet where the heater core returns. I would look at this more from a pressure differential standpoint than fluid dynamics. Being that the EWP controller will now be controlling pump speed in order to warm car up faster, can I now delete this IACV? My understanding of the IACV is that it boosts the revs when the car is cold so that it warms up faster. I have an NA6 B6 so the idle air control valve (IACV) is attached to the thermostat housing. Thoughts on this also?Īnyone care to contribute any thoughts to this please? Particularly if you've gone down the road of an EWP and you are with or without a re-route.įurther to this, when I do put the EWP in, I will be removing the stock water pump impeller, as well as the thermostat and the thermostat housing. I don't know much about fluid dynamics, but I think by having the pump on the bottom radiator hose the flow past the heater outlet mouth will pull water out of the heater hose. The argument put forward is that by putting the pump on the bottom radiator hose it changes the flow through the heater core and so doesn't pull as much hot water out the back of the engine. Neither in gridlock traffic on such days so I have never considered getting a re-route. I'm in Australia and I have taken the car to trackdays in 90-100* weather and had no issues with over heating. So, I am looking at installing a Davies Craig EWP (and controller), and I've been told by a very respected and knowledgeable friend that I need to install a reroute to avoid over heating. So please before you start just having a go at me just understand that I've got the EWP and it's going in regardless. I'm copying this from another forum where instead of helping people were just questioning why I'd do it.
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